Servicing All Areas Around Brisbane, Gold Coast and Northern New South Wales
ind clear answers to the most common questions about chain wire fencing, security fencing, and storage cages. This guide explains materials, installation methods, and maintenance so you can make informed decisions for your property or project. All information is tailored for homes, businesses and sites across Brisbane, the Gold Coast and surrounding areas.
Chain wire (also called chain link) is made from interwoven steel wire formed into a diamond mesh. The wire is usually galvanised to resist rust, and can be PVC-coated for extra durability and a cleaner look. Posts, rails and fittings are also steel so the whole system works as one.
Yes — they’re different names for the same product. In Australia, “chain wire” is common, while “chain link” is often used overseas; both describe steel wire woven into a diamond mesh and fixed to steel posts and rails.
A well-built chain wire fence typically lasts15–25 years. Lifespan depends on the coating (galvanised vs PVC), proximity to salt air, soil drainage around posts, and whether the fence is kept tensioned and clear of vegetation.
Common heights (mm) are 900, 1200, 1500, 1800, 2100, 2400, 3000 and 3400. Heights are chosen to suit the site: lower for boundary definition, higher for security or ball-stop applications. Custom heights are straightforward with the right posts and mesh.
Yes — chain wire can be raked to the ground or stepped between posts. Using tension wires/rails keeps the mesh tight, and you can add a concrete plinth or mesh skirt to remove gaps on steeper or rough sections.
It’s widely used for business yards, warehouses, schools, sports courts, utilities, car parks and storage areas. The appeal is visibility, airflow and strength at a sensible cost, with fast installation and easy repairs if sections are damaged.
The two main options are galvanised (zinc-coated steel) and PVC-coated mesh over galvanised core wire. Galvanised is the workhorse finish; PVC adds another protective layer, softens the look (typically black or green), and performs well near coastal environments.
Chain wire offers excellent impact resistance because the mesh flexes and spreads the force, while the steel posts provide rigidity. It won’t be as rigid as welded panel systems, but it’s tougher than timber for impacts and far easier to repair after a hit.
Absolutely. You can choose mesh aperture and wire gauge, fence height, PVC colour, barbed or razor top, bottom rails or plinths, privacy slats, and matching pedestrian or vehicle gates. Layouts can follow slopes and odd boundaries, so the system adapts to almost any site.
For most sites a 50 mm diamond with 2.5–3.15 mm core wire works well. Smaller apertures and heavier wire increase strength and security; larger apertures reduce cost and weight. PVC-coated wire has a slightly larger outside diameter than the galvanised core.
Storage cages are ideal for bikes, tools, cartons, seasonal stock, small equipment and personal items. They’re designed for secure, ventilated storage rather than hazardous materials or perishable goods. For apartment and car park cages, most bodies corporate prefer tidy, contained items that don’t emit odours or leak liquids.
Yes, many buildings allocate a portion of a car space or a nearby wall for a lockable cage. Approval usually depends on the cage footprint, clearances for vehicles and walkways, and keeping access routes unobstructed. Compact, wall-mounted or ceiling-hung designs can maximise space without interfering with parking.
Purpose-built cages use heavy gauge mesh, reinforced frames and tamper-resistant fixings, making them harder to cut or pry than general fencing. The lock hardware is the critical point, so we pair strong doors with quality padlocks or key systems. Good lighting and passive surveillance further increase deterrence.
Yes, cages can be built to almost any footprint and height to suit columns, pipes and car park layouts. Options include single or double doors, top panels, internal shelving, mesh infills to the ceiling, and shared dividing walls for multi-bay banks. We measure on site to maximise every centimetre.
For two adult bikes plus boxes, a cage around 1.8–2.4 m long by 1.0–1.2 m deep with a 2.1 m height works well. If you store tools or camping gear, allow extra depth for shelves and clear door swing. In tight basements, tall narrow cages or overhead bike rails save space.
Yes, cages keep belongings contained and off traffic lanes, which improves safety and presentation. Residents gain secure space without needing an external storage unit, and building managers get a tidier, more compliant car park. Clearly defined cages also reduce disputes about what belongs where.
Most cages use galvanised steel mesh with square or diamond apertures on steel posts and frames. Doors are braced for rigidity and hung on heavy-duty hinges, then finished with latch plates suited to padlocks or keyed locks. In coastal areas, PVC-coated mesh is often chosen for added durability.
Cages are typically anchored to concrete with mechanical or chemical fasteners at posts and frames. Where floor penetrations are limited, wall-mounted frames and top bracing can be used to share loads. We lay out doors to avoid vehicle swing paths and keep fire aisles and services clear.
Extra storage is highly valued by residents and businesses, so dedicated cages can improve appeal and retention. For investors and body corporates, well-planned cage banks make under-used corners productive, helping differentiate the building. Clear, uniform cages also enhance the overall look of the basement.
Yes. We offer shade cloth as the privacy option for storage cages. It reduces line-of-sight to items while allowing airflow, is lightweight, and can be fitted neatly to the mesh so doors and latches operate normally. Shade cloth is a cost-effective way to screen contents in apartment and car park cages without adding bulk.
Small runs and single gates can be completed in a day; medium yards often take 1–3 days; larger sites with multiple gates or obstacles can take a week or more. Time depends on access, ground conditions, post footing depth, and any concrete cutting or core drilling required.
Yes. Posts can be base-plated and anchored to concrete or bitumen. Where a flush finish is needed, core-drilling allows posts to be set through the surface and grouted or posts can be flanged and dyna bolted. The approach depends on slab thickness, edge distances, and where expansion joints sit.
Clear vegetation and stored items along the fence line, mark the proposed layout, and ensure access for vehicles. Identify underground services and drainage lines, and confirm where you want gates, returns and any keep-clear zones for vehicles or roller doors.
Fences can be raked to follow the ground or stepped between posts. Tension wires/rails keep the mesh tight, and a concrete plinth or mesh skirt can close any gaps. On sharp changes, additional posts and rails help maintain alignment and tension.
We lodge a Dial Before You Dig enquiry for every job and, where services are indicated, we arrange professional locating on site before works begin. If you prefer, you can organise the underground service locations yourself and provide the plans. Once services are confirmed, we adjust post positions, footing shapes or use base plates/hydro vac to avoid utilities while keeping the fence stable.
We position pedestrian and vehicle gates where circulation is easiest and sight lines are clear. Swing direction, opening width and ground fall are checked so leaves don’t bind. For wider openings, we allow for posts, bracing and hardware loads from daily use. We also discuss gate positioning with our customers to see if there is a preferred installation area.
Expect general construction noise from excavating, cutting and welding, plus some dust on concrete or dirt. We set up tidy work zones, manage waste as we go, and keep access ways open. Most sites can continue operating while the fence is installed. We always ensure the site is cleaned before we leave.
We assess the line and use rock augers or core drilling to create clean holes to the required depth. Posts are set with high-strength concrete, and where edge distances are tight we use base plates and anchors to fix to sound rock or slab. The aim is a secure footing without over-excavation or compromising nearby pavements and services.
Yes. We can follow kinks and offsets with extra posts or short panels, keeping tension consistent. If the boundary isn’t straight or has obstacles, we use returns and bracing so the mesh runs cleanly and gates still operate square and true.
We remove off-cuts and packaging, check fixings and tensions, test each gate for clearance and latching and ensure the area is clean. You’ll get guidance on basic upkeep—keeping the line clear of vegetation, checking tension wires, and rinsing coastal sites to extend service life.
Look for slack mesh that won’t tension, posts that are loose or bent, rust-through on wires or fittings, and gates that won’t align even after adjustment. Localised damage is usually repairable; widespread corrosion, multiple broken wires, or leaning lines across long runs often point to replacement being more cost-effective.
We re-tension the line using tie wires and tensioners, replace broken ties, and check top/bottom supports. If the mesh has stretched or distorted, a short section is cut out and re-laced with a new wire so the diamonds sit correctly and the fence holds its shape.
Minor bends can sometimes be corrected in place, but posts hit hard or kinked at ground level are typically replaced. We release the mesh, extract the post and footing, set a new footing to depth, plumb the post, then reattach and tension the mesh and wires.
Small cuts are closed by weaving in a replacement strand and tying off securely. Larger holes are patched by removing a panel width and re-lacing fresh mesh so the repair blends with the existing diamonds. We finish by checking tension wires so the patch doesn’t sag.
Common causes are hinge drop, loose gudgeons, ground movement or a twisted frame after impact. We re-set hinge positions, square the frame, adjust the latch keep, and trim or pack the stop if needed. If the frame is warped or the post has moved, parts may need replacing.
Clean back to sound metal, remove loose scale, then apply cold-galv or a zinc-rich primer and topcoat to seal the area. Focus on welds, cut ends and fittings. Addressing small spots early prevents full wire breaks and extends the life of posts, rails and mesh.
Keep the line clear of vegetation and overhanging trees, rinse coastal sites periodically, tighten loose ties, and lubricate hinges and latches. Check tension wires after storms or impacts, make sure gate stops are firm, and look for soil washouts around posts so footings stay stable.
Yes. Most cage repairs (door alignment, latch replacement, mesh patches, and panel swaps) are done in place with light tools. We cordon a small work zone, keep access paths clear, and coordinate timing so tenants and vehicles can move safely while work proceeds.
Small tears can be re-fixed with new ties; larger damage is best solved by replacing the section for a neat finish. We tension the cloth evenly so it doesn’t flap, trim cleanly around locks and hinges, and ensure doors still swing and latch freely.
We isolate the affected area, remove bent mesh and hazardous wires, and brace or replace the damaged post to restore a safe line. Temporary panels can secure openings until permanent parts arrive, after which the mesh is re-laced and the gate rehung if required. We will let you know if site security is required.
Galvanised mesh is zinc-coated steel that delivers dependable corrosion resistance at a sharp price. PVC-coated mesh adds a bonded outer jacket over a galvanised core, giving extra protection, a smoother feel and colour options. It’s popular for coastal areas and sites wanting a tidier, low-glare look.
Black and green are the go-to colours because they blend into landscaping and car park interiors. Black reduces reflections under lighting, while green softens the appearance around vegetation. Both sit over a galvanised core wire for durability.
For general boundaries, mid-weight wire is usually sufficient. Higher-risk areas benefit from heavier gauges that resist cutting and distortion. Heavier wire pairs best with tight tensioning and solid posts so the whole line works as a single, rigid system.
Yes. Smaller apertures are harder to grip and cut, improving security and ball-stop performance. Standard apertures balance airflow, weight and cost. Larger apertures reduce material use but are easier to climb; they are best for low-risk boundaries.
Typical frames use galvanised steel posts with top rails and tension wires. Options include heavier wall posts for long runs, braced corner/end posts, and base-plated posts for slabs. Additional mid rails or bottom rails improve rigidity where impact or tight mesh control is needed.
Single and double swing gates cover most sites; sliding or trackless cantilever gates suit wider openings and tight driveways. For cages, hinged doors with reinforced frames are standard, with lock hardware chosen to suit daily use and access control.
Yes. We offer shade cloth as the privacy option. It softens visibility into yards and cages while allowing ventilation, and it can be fitted neatly so doors and latches operate normally. It’s a practical, lightweight way to screen contents in apartments and car parks.
Common deterrents include angled extensions with barbed wire on perimeter fences. For low-impact areas, taller mesh and tighter apertures often achieve the goal without toppings. Gate frames can also be built higher to match the fence line for a consistent finish and electric fencing is always an option.
Choose PVC-coated mesh over a galvanised wire core, quality powder coated posts and rails, and powder coated fittings for longevity. Keeping the line clear of trapped debris and giving hardware a periodic rinse helps extend service life near salt or industrial areas.
In soil, posts are set in concrete footings sized to suit the height and load. On slabs, base plates with anchors are used, or posts are core-drilled and grouted for a flush finish. The choice depends on slab thickness, edge distances and access requirements.
Total length or footprint, height, mesh wire gauge and aperture, galvanised vs PVC-coated finish, number and type of gates, posts and rails, and how the fence is fixed (in soil vs base-plated to concrete) are the main drivers. Site access, obstacles, and any concrete cutting or core drilling also influence labour time.
Steel and transport costs move regularly, which flows through to mesh, posts, rails and fittings. Quotes reflect current supply conditions and lead times, so validity periods are kept short to protect both parties from sudden market swings.
Provide a rough plan or photos, overall metres or cage dimensions, preferred height, finish (galvanised or PVC), gate sizes and positions, and note any slab, services, obstacles or tight access. Our estimating team will organise a site inspection whenever a phone or email brief isn’t enough to quote accurately.
Differences often come from lighter wire gauges, lighter posts, larger mesh apertures, fewer rails, smaller or no gates, or exclusions like concrete works and waste removal. Read the inclusions carefully and compare like-for-like specifications to understand value, not just the number at the bottom.
Line up the basics: height, total metres or cage size, wire gauge and aperture, finish, number and width of gates, posts/rail weight, footing method, and any allowances for cutting, drilling or base plates. Confirm what is excluded so you’re not surprised during install. All fencers should provide you with a description of the type of materials they have quoted for.
PVC-coated mesh typically adds cost because it includes a galvanised core plus the PVC jacket. Many buyers choose it for appearance and added corrosion resistance, especially in coastal or high-visibility sites. The best value depends on the site and the look you want with galvanised being the cheapest option.
Limited access, heavy traffic management, rock or hard ground, working around services, difficult demolition, or long carries from parking to the work area can extend labour time. On slabs, core drilling may be needed, which takes longer than digging in soil.
Gates add frames, hardware and extra posts or bracing, so they are a key cost item. Wider openings, heavier frames, and added security features increase materials and time.
Most quotes and the emails they are attached to outlinee deposits, progress or completion payment terms, and an estimated lead time from approval to install. They also note assumptions about site conditions and any items priced as provisional until confirmed.
Prioritise height and gate quality, then choose a sensible mesh gauge and aperture for the risk level. Keep the layout efficient, minimise custom angles, and place gates where access is natural. A galvanised finish is often the best value; add PVC where appearance or extra corrosion resistance matters most.
Chain wire fencing specialist servicing Brisbane, Gold Coast, Northern NSW and surrounding areas.
ABN 53 010 337 185
QBCC 717236
PO Box 761, Ormeau, Gold Coast QLD 4208
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